Pressure gate or wall mounted gate?

It depends on the position. At the top of the stairs always use a wall mounted model: a pressure gate can give way under a sudden push and fall along with the animal, turning the protection into a hazard. A pressure model is acceptable at the bottom of the stairs or as a divider between two rooms, where a barrier that fails does not cause a fall from a height. Either way, check the hold from time to time, because fixings loosen.

My cat jumps every gate: how do I stop it on the stairs?

For cats, which jump and climb, low gates do little. Consider tall barriers or full height solutions for the critical spots, and above all remove launch points near railings and balustrades. Often with a cat the goal is not to ban the stairs but to make safe the gaps and railings it could fall from. Focus your effort there, where a fall would be most serious, rather than on blocking access.

My older dog struggles on the stairs: should I block them entirely?

Not necessarily, but they need managing. Make the steps non slip, stop it rushing or jumping them and consider limiting repeated climbs and descents, which stress joints and spine. For some dogs, especially long backed ones or those with joint problems, it can make sense to move the bed and bowls to the floor where they spend most time. If you notice new difficulty or pain, discuss it with the vet before deciding how much to restrict.

How often should I recheck the protections?

Check the gate latches every day with a glance, because a barrier left ajar does not protect. Check the fixings, the state of the non slip surface and the mesh at least every few months, and always after moving furniture or a change at home. Protections loosen and wear with use, and one that looks fine but gives way at the wrong moment is worse than none, because it makes you lower your guard.

Safe home and enrichment35 minLevel: BeginnerUpdated on August 20, 2026

Making stairs and railings safe at home

Stairs and railings are a blind spot at home: how to prevent falls and entrapment of puppies, cats and older dogs with gates, non slip surfaces and barriers.

Audience: Pet owners
Species: Dog, Cat
Scope: Valid everywhere, Italy, European Union

What you need before you start

Un metro per misurare l'ampiezza dei vani e la distanza fra i montanti della ringhiera
Un cancelletto di sicurezza o una rete adatti al passaggio da chiudere
Materiale antiscivolo per i gradini, come strisce adesive o una passatoia fissata

Stairs are the classic hazard we do not see, because we climb them dozens of times a day without a hitch. For an animal it is a different story: a puppy that does not yet control its paws, a cat leaning out between the railing posts, an older dog with stiff joints are all candidates for a fall that can cost a fracture or worse. Unlike other household risks, the stair risk is nearly always solvable with simple, permanent measures: a barrier in the right place, a surface that does not slip, a gap too narrow to slip through. This guide helps you see your stairs and railings through the animal's eyes, work out who is most at risk, and choose the right protections without turning the home into a building site.

Who is most at risk and why

Not every animal faces the same danger on stairs, and recognising your own case helps you decide how much to do. The risk concentrates in three profiles, each for a different reason: those without coordination yet, those that climb and lean out, those that have lost stability with age or illness.

Puppies and kittens: immature coordination, enthusiasm and no sense of a drop.
Older dogs: stiff joints, reduced muscle and sometimes fading sight or hearing.
Curious cats: a tendency to lean out between railing posts and to jump from heights.
Small dogs and long backed, short legged breeds, more exposed to spinal injury.
Animals recovering after surgery, with balance and strength temporarily reduced.

Inspecting stairs and railings with a critical eye

Before you buy any protection, look at your stairs the way the animal would, ideally by crouching to its height. Many hazards only become obvious from that angle, and measuring two or three distances tells you at once where to act.

Measure the gap between the vertical railing posts: if the animal's head fits through, there is a risk of entrapment or a fall.
Check whether the steps are smooth or polished, a condition that multiplies slips, especially with nails.
See whether the steps are open at the back, because a paw can slip in and get trapped.
Look at the top and bottom of the flight: these are the two spots where barriers are needed and where most falls happen.
Note whether the handrail leaves a gap above or below through which a cat could pass or fall.

The barriers: gates and mesh

The most effective protection is to block access to the stairs when they are unsupervised. A well chosen, well fitted gate solves most cases, but the choice depends on where you install it and which animal it has to stop.

Decide where the barrier is needed
Almost always two spots are needed: at the top of the stairs, where a fall is more serious, and at the bottom, to prevent uncontrolled climbing. Also weigh up intermediate landings if the animal uses them as a launch point.
Choose the fixing to match the position
At the top of the stairs always use a gate screwed to the wall, not a pressure fit: a pressure model can give way under a push and fall along with the animal. Pressure fit is fine only at the bottom of the stairs or between two rooms.
Check the height and the openings
The gate must be tall enough not to be jumped and with openings too narrow for the head to pass or get stuck. For cats that jump, consider tall barriers or full height solutions.
Check the latch every day
A barrier only counts if it is closed. Choose a mechanism that self closes or that cannot be left ajar, because forgetting is the number one cause of accidents.
Get the animal used to the barrier without frustration
Reward calm near the gate and stop it becoming an obstacle to force. An animal that digs at or jumps the barrier out of frustration needs handling on the behaviour side too, not just the physical one.

Steps that do not slip

Even with barriers, sooner or later the animal uses the stairs, and that is where grip counts. Nails on smooth steps slide like skates, and a slip on the way down easily becomes a nasty fall. Roughening the surface is a cheap measure that makes a big difference.

Non slip solutions for steps. Choose by the stair material and how often it is used, checking that the fixing does not itself create a trip hazard.
Solution	Suited to	Note
Adhesive non slip strips	Smooth wooden or stone steps	Quick to lay, replace them as they wear
Fixed runner or carpet	Heavily used indoor stairs	Must be fixed well, a sliding carpet makes it worse
Steps with a rubber edge	Outdoor and slippery stairs	Improves grip and marks the step edge
Single mats per step	Those who want no fixed changes	Only if well anchored, otherwise they become a trap

Railings, balustrades and gaps

Modern indoor stairs often have railings with widely spaced posts or open balustrades overlooking a drop. For a climbing cat or a puppy that pushes its head through, they are a silent danger. Closing these gaps is the last piece of a truly safe staircase.

Fit rigid mesh or a clear panel over stretches of railing with posts spaced too far apart.
Close the gaps in balustrades overlooking a lower floor, where a fall is more serious.
Do not leave furniture, shelves or objects near the railing that give a cat a launch point.
Check that handrails and panels are well fixed and do not give way under the weight of an animal leaning on them.
Reassess safety after any change at home, such as moving the furniture or a new animal arriving.

Frequently asked questions

Pressure gate or wall mounted gate?: It depends on the position. At the top of the stairs always use a wall mounted model: a pressure gate can give way under a sudden push and fall along with the animal, turning the protection into a hazard. A pressure model is acceptable at the bottom of the stairs or as a divider between two rooms, where a barrier that fails does not cause a fall from a height. Either way, check the hold from time to time, because fixings loosen.
My cat jumps every gate: how do I stop it on the stairs?: For cats, which jump and climb, low gates do little. Consider tall barriers or full height solutions for the critical spots, and above all remove launch points near railings and balustrades. Often with a cat the goal is not to ban the stairs but to make safe the gaps and railings it could fall from. Focus your effort there, where a fall would be most serious, rather than on blocking access.
My older dog struggles on the stairs: should I block them entirely?: Not necessarily, but they need managing. Make the steps non slip, stop it rushing or jumping them and consider limiting repeated climbs and descents, which stress joints and spine. For some dogs, especially long backed ones or those with joint problems, it can make sense to move the bed and bowls to the floor where they spend most time. If you notice new difficulty or pain, discuss it with the vet before deciding how much to restrict.
How often should I recheck the protections?: Check the gate latches every day with a glance, because a barrier left ajar does not protect. Check the fixings, the state of the non slip surface and the mesh at least every few months, and always after moving furniture or a change at home. Protections loosen and wear with use, and one that looks fine but gives way at the wrong moment is worse than none, because it makes you lower your guard.

What to do next

Look at stairs and railings at the animal's height, identify who is most at risk and measure the gaps between the posts. Fit a wall mounted gate at the top of the stairs, make the steps non slip, close the railing gaps a cat or puppy could fall through and check the gate latches every day. Review it all after any change at home.