Setting up the guinea pig's home and diet

Even before the cage, it matters to understand what kind of animal a guinea pig is. It lives in groups in nature, and loneliness is a source of stress for it, not a comfort. Space also counts far more than many commercial cages suggest, which are often too small to allow the movement it needs.

• The guinea pig is a social animal: prolonged loneliness makes it suffer, and in many settings keeping it with a compatible companion guinea pig is advised.
• It needs a large cage, above all developed horizontally, because the guinea pig moves by running, not climbing.
• The floor should be solid, not a grid, which can injure the delicate feet.
• It needs hiding places and huts to shelter in, because as a prey animal it needs to feel safe.
• Keep it away from draughts, excessive heat and direct sunlight, which the guinea pig tolerates poorly.

Once a sufficiently large cage is chosen, the setup follows a few principles: a safe floor, distinct areas for eating, sheltering and toileting, and materials that do not harm the airways. A well-organised environment reduces stress and simplifies daily cleaning.

1. 1

   Choose the right spot in the home

   Place the cage in a quiet spot, away from draughts, radiators and direct light, but not isolated, because the guinea pig enjoys the family's presence.

2. 2

   Prepare a safe, absorbent floor

   Cover the solid floor with bedding suited to small mammals, avoiding aromatic wood shavings that can irritate the airways. The layer should absorb and stay dry.

3. 3

   Create the cage areas

   Distinguish an area with hay always available, one with water and fresh food, and one or more huts as shelter. Defined spaces help the guinea pig orient itself and feel safe.

4. 4

   Set up accessible water and hay

   Provide clean water, from a bottle or a stable bowl, and a rack or spot with hay always full, because the guinea pig must be able to eat hay at any moment.

5. 5

   Clean soiled areas daily

   Remove wet parts and residue every day, and change soiled hay. Regular cleaning prevents bad smells and skin or respiratory problems.

6. 6

   Plan for time outside the cage

   Set up a safe space where the guinea pig can move every day under supervision, away from cables and hazards, because movement is part of its wellbeing.

The guinea pig's diet is built as a pyramid, and at the base is hay. It is not an accessory but the main food: it wears down the continuously growing teeth and keeps the gut healthy. Above the hay come suitable fresh vegetables and a measured share of species-specific pellets, while sugars and unsuitable foods are to be avoided.

The feature that sets the guinea pig apart from almost all other small animals is its inability to produce vitamin C on its own. Like humans, it must take it in through the diet, and a prolonged deficiency causes health problems. That is why vitamin C intake is not a detail but a pillar of care, to be ensured every day.

• The guinea pig does not synthesise vitamin C and must receive it through food every day.
• Some suitable fresh vegetables are a source, but the content varies and drops with storage.
• Species-specific pellets are often fortified with vitamin C, which nonetheless degrades over time after the pack is opened.
• Do not add vitamin C to drinking water without guidance, because it degrades quickly and does not ensure intake.
• Supplementation amounts, if needed, should be set by the vet, not estimated by eye.
• Signs such as weakness, difficulty moving, a coat in poor condition or loss of appetite should be reported to the vet at once.