How often do I really need to brush a doodle?

It depends on the coat length, but for a coat kept long the honest answer is every day, even if only for a few minutes. A continuously growing curly coat does not wait: skip a few days and the knots that had just formed turn into real mats, and at that point the brush is no longer enough. If you cannot manage daily brushing, the sensible answer is to keep the dog in a shorter coat with regular clips, not to stretch the intervals and hope it holds.

Is the slicker enough or do I also need the comb?

You need both, and the comb is the one that tells the truth. The slicker works the surface well but can skate over a mat at the base without touching it, giving you the illusion of a tidy coat. A fine toothed comb, run down to the skin, is the proof: if it slides free you really are done, if it snags there is still a knot. Use the slicker for most of the work and the comb to check every section.

Can I clip my dog at home to save money?

You can handle daily upkeep and small tidying, but a full clip of a curly coat is a craft. Clippers heat up, the skin under the curl is delicate, and even a slightly matted coat needs technique to avoid hurting the dog. If you want to cut costs, invest in consistent brushing at home: that is what keeps the coat in a state that makes the professional clip quick, and therefore cheaper.

My puppy's coat was easy, now it knots constantly: what happened?

This is entirely normal and one of the most common surprises for anyone with a curly coated dog. Many puppies have a soft, short coat that looks after itself, then, usually between six and twelve months, it changes into the adult coat, denser and more prone to matting. You did nothing wrong: this is when the brushing routine has to step up, precisely because the coat has entered its most demanding phase. Once the transition is over, with a good habit, it becomes manageable again.

Grooming and hygiene45 minLevel: IntermediateUpdated on August 20, 2026

Caring for a continuously growing curly coat without ending up matted

Poodles, doodles and bichons grow hair instead of shedding it: how to brush to the skin, prevent mats, and manage clipping and bathing the right way.

Audience: Pet owners, Breeders
Species: Dog
Scope: Valid everywhere, Italy, European Union

What you need before you start

Una spazzola cardatrice e un pettine a denti larghi e stretti adatti al pelo riccio
Un ambiente illuminato dove poter far stare fermo il cane su un piano stabile
Qualche minuto ogni giorno da dedicare al mantello, non solo una seduta lunga a settimana
Il contatto di una toelettatura professionale per la tosatura periodica e i casi difficili

The curly coats of poodles, bichons and the ever more common doodle crosses share one feature that changes all the rules: the hair barely sheds, it grows continuously like ours. That makes them low on mess around the house, but it demands upkeep a shedding coat never needs. Dead hair does not fall away; it stays trapped in the living curl, where it knots at the base, close to the skin, exactly where the eye cannot reach. Anyone who treats a doodle like any long haired dog finds out too late, with a felted coat that can no longer be brushed out and has to be shaved off entirely. This guide explains how a curly coat is actually worked: brushing right down to the root, preventing mats, choosing between keeping and clipping, and handling bath and dry without creating fresh knots.

Why a curly coat behaves differently

Understanding the coat's structure explains why it needs a dedicated routine. In a shedding coat the dead hair drops onto the sofa or into the brush. In a continuously growing curly coat the opposite happens: dead hair stays hooked into the living curls, tangles and forms a mesh that starts at the base. The surface can look tidy while underneath, against the skin, a compact mat has already formed.

The hair grows without stopping, so length is managed by clipping, not by waiting for a shed.
Dead hair does not fall out on its own: if you do not brush it away, it knots where you cannot see.
Mats form first at friction points, meaning armpits, behind the ears, groin, collar and rear.
Moisture and rubbing speed up matting: a badly done bath can felt an already tight coat in one go.
Many doodle crosses have an unpredictable coat, different from sibling to sibling, and not necessarily as easy as the marketing suggests.

The brushing that reaches the skin

The most common mistake is brushing only the surface: the slicker glides over the curl tips, the top looks combed and underneath it keeps knotting. The correct technique is called line brushing, and its whole point is to work the coat from the skin outward, a small section at a time.

Divide the coat into sections
Lift a section of hair with one hand and expose the skin beneath. You will work one small section at a time, so you are sure to reach the base and not just the tip.
Brush from the root with the slicker
Rest the slicker close to the skin and comb outward with light strokes. The pressure must be gentle: scratching the skin with the pins causes a painful redness known as brush burn.
Always check with the comb
After the slicker, run a fine toothed comb down to the skin. If it slides free, that section is done. If it snags, there is still a knot to work out: the slicker alone deceives, the comb does not.
Work the friction points harder
Armpits, groin, behind the ears and under the collar mat first. Give them an extra check every session, even when the rest is fine.
Tease knots apart with your fingers, not by pulling
A small knot opens by pinching and gently separating it from the base, holding the hair at the root so you do not pull the skin. Pulling hurts and teaches the dog to hate the brush.
Finish with a full pass and a treat
Comb the whole coat through to even it out and end with something pleasant. A dog that links brushing to a positive moment cooperates, and cooperation is half the job.

Keep it long or clip it: how to decide

There is no absolute right choice: it depends on how much time you can give the coat and on the dog's lifestyle. A long coat is handsome but a daily commitment; a short clip cuts upkeep but has to be redone regularly because the hair always grows back. What matters is choosing deliberately, not being forced to shave because you let the coat go.

Indicative lengths and upkeep frequency for a curly coat. Timings vary with the individual dog and the season.
Choice	Brushing at home	Professional clip	Suits whom
Long coat	Every day, thorough	Every 4-6 weeks	Has time and loves the full look
Medium length	Every 2-3 days	Every 6-8 weeks	Wants a manageable compromise
Short clip	1-2 times a week	Every 8-10 weeks	Active dog or little spare time
Shave down for mats	Restarts from scratch after	When the coat is compromised	Only as a fix for an already ruined coat

Bath and dry without creating mats

The bath is the moment when an already tight curly coat can felt irreversibly. Water and rubbing, on undetangled curls, seize them up like wool felt. The golden rule is a single one: always brush before the bath, never wash a matted dog hoping the water will loosen the knots, because it does the opposite.

Fully detangle the coat before wetting it: a wet knot becomes a permanent mat.
Use a suitable, diluted shampoo, blotting rather than scrubbing in circular motions.
Rinse thoroughly, because leftover product weighs down the curl and attracts dirt.
Blot with the towel without rubbing, then dry with a warm dryer while combing at the same time.
Dry all the way through: a curl left damp at the base is the ideal ground for new knots and skin irritation.

Caring for ears, paws and the area around the eyes

In curly coated dogs a few areas need attention beyond body brushing. These are places where hair grows where it should not or traps moisture, and neglecting them leads to problems you would not see on a normal coat.

Hair grows inside the ear canal of many curly dogs: it needs regular managing because it traps moisture and encourages ear infections.
Tufts form between the pads and collect grit and small stones: trimming them improves grip and reduces irritation.
Hair around the eyes should be kept short so it does not irritate them or hold discharge.
The area under the tail and around the private parts soils easily: a short sanitary trim keeps it clean.
Check the skin as you brush: redness, crusting or a bad smell under a thick coat should be shown to the vet.

Frequently asked questions

How often do I really need to brush a doodle?: It depends on the coat length, but for a coat kept long the honest answer is every day, even if only for a few minutes. A continuously growing curly coat does not wait: skip a few days and the knots that had just formed turn into real mats, and at that point the brush is no longer enough. If you cannot manage daily brushing, the sensible answer is to keep the dog in a shorter coat with regular clips, not to stretch the intervals and hope it holds.
Is the slicker enough or do I also need the comb?: You need both, and the comb is the one that tells the truth. The slicker works the surface well but can skate over a mat at the base without touching it, giving you the illusion of a tidy coat. A fine toothed comb, run down to the skin, is the proof: if it slides free you really are done, if it snags there is still a knot. Use the slicker for most of the work and the comb to check every section.
Can I clip my dog at home to save money?: You can handle daily upkeep and small tidying, but a full clip of a curly coat is a craft. Clippers heat up, the skin under the curl is delicate, and even a slightly matted coat needs technique to avoid hurting the dog. If you want to cut costs, invest in consistent brushing at home: that is what keeps the coat in a state that makes the professional clip quick, and therefore cheaper.
My puppy's coat was easy, now it knots constantly: what happened?: This is entirely normal and one of the most common surprises for anyone with a curly coated dog. Many puppies have a soft, short coat that looks after itself, then, usually between six and twelve months, it changes into the adult coat, denser and more prone to matting. You did nothing wrong: this is when the brushing routine has to step up, precisely because the coat has entered its most demanding phase. Once the transition is over, with a good habit, it becomes manageable again.

What to do next

Treat a curly coat for what it is, hair that grows and does not shed: brush every day in lines down to the skin and check each section with the comb, not the slicker alone. Work the friction points, choose deliberately between long and clipped based on the time you have, always detangle before the bath and dry while combing. Look after ears, pads and the eye area, and if the coat is already matted turn to a groomer rather than pulling.