My old dog no longer tolerates brushing like before: what am I doing wrong?

Probably nothing in the movement, but something in the method. With age the skin thins and the joints stiffen, so a pull or a position that once went unnoticed now hurts. Try shortening the session, working in a position more comfortable for the dog, perhaps lying down, and using a softer brush. If the discomfort persists even with a light touch, it is worth having the vet check: sudden intolerance can hide pain that needs ruling out.

How often should I trim the nails of a less active animal?

More often than you think. An older animal that moves little does not wear its nails down by walking, so they tend to grow and curl. Overlong nails change how the paw meets the ground and worsen existing joint discomfort. A check every two or three weeks lets you make small trims, less stressful than a drastic cut. If you fear catching the quick, have the vet or groomer show you the technique the first time.

Can I still bathe an older animal or is it too stressful?

You can, but with judgement and not out of habit. An older animal regulates its body temperature less well and tires sooner, so a bath should only be given when truly needed, in a warm, draught free room, with careful drying to stop it getting cold. Always support the body so it does not slip and keep time in the water to a minimum. For everyday light hygiene, targeted dry cleaning of just the soiled areas is often more suitable.

I found a large mat close to the skin: should I cut it out myself?

With great caution, or not alone. A tight mat pressed against the skin is hard to separate from the skin beneath, and with scissors the risk of cutting an older animal's thin skin is real. If you are not sure, do not persist: an experienced groomer removes it with clippers, which glide over the skin without cutting it. In the meantime avoid pulling it, because tension on a tight mat can itself injure fragile skin.

Grooming and hygiene30 minLevel: BeginnerUpdated on August 18, 2026

Grooming an older or frail animal safely

Caring for coat, nails and hygiene in an older animal without tiring it: short sessions, protected posture, watching for pain, and when to stop and call the vet.

Audience: Pet owners
Species: Dog, Cat
Scope: Valid everywhere, Italy, European Union

What you need before you start

Una superficie stabile e antiscivolo all'altezza giusta, per evitare che l'animale scivoli o debba saltare
Spazzole e strumenti adatti al tipo di pelo, già puliti e a portata di mano prima di iniziare
La conoscenza dei punti dolenti o delle articolazioni rigide del tuo animale, così da evitarli
Tempo sufficiente per lavorare a sessioni brevi, senza fretta e senza costringerlo a restare fermo a lungo

In a young animal grooming is almost a detail; in an older one it becomes part of care. The coat mats more easily because the animal licks and turns less, the skin thins, the joints no longer tolerate the old positions, and standing still for twenty minutes can be as tiring as a walk. Grooming a frail animal well does not mean doing the same things more gently, it means changing method: short sessions, protected posture, constant attention to signs of pain, and a willingness to stop halfway. This guide explains how to keep coat, nails and hygiene in order without turning an act of care into a source of stress or, worse, of harm.

Why grooming changes with age

The first step is to understand what is different from the younger years, because that is where the mistakes hide. Many owners handle the older animal as always and realise too late that a familiar movement has become painful. The differences are concrete and worth keeping in mind before you pick up the brush.

The skin is thinner and more fragile, so it reddens and tears under a pull it used to tolerate.
The joints are stiffer: some positions, such as holding a paw up for a while, become uncomfortable or painful.
The animal grooms itself less, so mats form faster, especially behind the ears and under the armpits.
Physical stamina drops: a long session tires and irritates an animal that once sat through it.
Lumps, warts and skin plaques appear that the brush can catch without you seeing them.

Setting up the space and the right posture

Half the result depends on how you arrange the space before you start. A frail animal needs to feel stable: if it slips or fears falling, it stiffens, and a stiffened body gets hurt more easily. The aim is to minimise the effort you ask of it to stay still.

Work on a stable surface with a non slip mat, never on a smooth top where the paws skid.
Bring the working area to the right height, so you need not bend nor make the animal jump up.
Prefer a natural position: if it is more comfortable lying on its side, work that way rather than forcing it to stand.
Keep everything you need within reach before you start, so you never leave it perched halfway through.
Choose a moment when the animal is calm and already relieved, not right after a meal or at peak activity.

Working out mats without hurting the skin

Mats are the older animal's number one problem: they form fast and, when pulled, tear already thin skin. The temptation to solve them with a yank must be resisted, because on a frail animal a pulled mat can become a wound. The right method is patient and works from the outside in.

Find the mats with your fingers before the brush
Run your hands over the coat to locate mats, especially in hidden spots like behind the ears, under the armpits and around the rear. Knowing where they are avoids brushing blind.
Isolate the mat holding its base against the skin
Rest your fingers between the mat and the skin and hold the base still. That way, as you work the mat, the pull reaches your hand rather than the skin.
Work from the tips towards the root, in small steps
Tease the mat apart a little at a time, starting at the end of the hair. Do not drive the tool down to the skin: mats open from the outside, not from the base.
If the mat is tight, do not persist
A mat too tight and close to the skin should not be torn out. Better to trim it carefully or hand it to a groomer experienced with older animals, who will use clippers rather than scissors.
Stop at the first sign of pain
A whimper, a stiffening, an attempt to move away are stop signals, not obstacles to push through. Break off, let it rest and resume in another session.

Nails, hygiene and delicate areas

In the older animal nails need more attention, not less: it moves less, so it does not wear them down, and overlong nails change the footing and worsen joint pain. Likewise hygiene of the rear and of skin folds matters more, because an animal that grooms itself little collects dirt exactly where the skin is most delicate.

Indicative frequency of checks when grooming an older animal. The real cadence depends on the individual's lifestyle and condition.
Area	What to check	How often
Nails	Excess length and altered footing	Check every 2-3 weeks
Coat	Forming mats and the skin beneath	Short brushing several times a week
Rear	Residue and soiled hair around the perianal area	Check every few days
Pads and between the toes	Excess hair and trapped material	Weekly check
Ears and eyes	Discharge and crusting	Weekly check, clean only if needed

For all these areas the principle is the same: little and often beats a lot and rarely. Short, frequent sessions keep things in order without ever asking the animal for a long effort, and they let you notice a change in the skin or nails early.

When to stop and bring in a professional

Knowing when to stop is a skill, not a surrender. With a frail animal the worst thing is to carry on past the warning sign just to finish the job. There are situations where the right hand is not yours, but that of a groomer experienced with older animals or that of the vet.

Stop at once if the animal shows pain, breathes with difficulty or tires visibly: comfort comes before looks.
Report to the vet new lumps, wounds, persistent redness or areas that become sore to the touch.
Hand extensive mats close to the skin to an experienced groomer, who can clip them safely.
Consider light sedation, decided by the vet, only where grooming would otherwise be impossible or traumatic.
Always split the work into several short sessions when one alone would need too long standing still.

Frequently asked questions

My old dog no longer tolerates brushing like before: what am I doing wrong?: Probably nothing in the movement, but something in the method. With age the skin thins and the joints stiffen, so a pull or a position that once went unnoticed now hurts. Try shortening the session, working in a position more comfortable for the dog, perhaps lying down, and using a softer brush. If the discomfort persists even with a light touch, it is worth having the vet check: sudden intolerance can hide pain that needs ruling out.
How often should I trim the nails of a less active animal?: More often than you think. An older animal that moves little does not wear its nails down by walking, so they tend to grow and curl. Overlong nails change how the paw meets the ground and worsen existing joint discomfort. A check every two or three weeks lets you make small trims, less stressful than a drastic cut. If you fear catching the quick, have the vet or groomer show you the technique the first time.
Can I still bathe an older animal or is it too stressful?: You can, but with judgement and not out of habit. An older animal regulates its body temperature less well and tires sooner, so a bath should only be given when truly needed, in a warm, draught free room, with careful drying to stop it getting cold. Always support the body so it does not slip and keep time in the water to a minimum. For everyday light hygiene, targeted dry cleaning of just the soiled areas is often more suitable.
I found a large mat close to the skin: should I cut it out myself?: With great caution, or not alone. A tight mat pressed against the skin is hard to separate from the skin beneath, and with scissors the risk of cutting an older animal's thin skin is real. If you are not sure, do not persist: an experienced groomer removes it with clippers, which glide over the skin without cutting it. In the meantime avoid pulling it, because tension on a tight mat can itself injure fragile skin.

What to do next

Treat grooming an older animal as care, not looks: short, frequent sessions, a stable non slip surface, a comfortable posture and constant attention to signs of pain. Work out mats holding the base still against the skin and stop at the first reaction. Use your hands to check nails, rear and skin, and hand extensive mats or any newly sore area to a professional.