Paddleboarding and kayaking with your dog: how to start safely

The first step is mental: stop thinking of the paddleboard and the kayak as a variant of a swim. They are activities of balance and of staying on board, with their own dynamics and dangers, and they must be prepared as such. A dog at ease in the water is not automatically ready to sit on a board that sways.

Some items are negotiable, one is not. A dog life jacket, with adequate buoyancy and a sturdy handle on the back, is the non negotiable starting point of every outing, because it is what lets you retrieve the dog from the water quickly and without capsizing yourself.

• A correctly sized life jacket, with a back handle that holds the dog's weight and straps adjusted without any points that pinch.
• A mat or non slip surface on the board or in the cockpit, to give the dog a stable grip and prevent slipping.
• Fresh water and a folding bowl on board, because the dog must never drink salt water or the questionable fresh water of a lake or river.
• Sun protection and shade at breaks: the surface reflects and amplifies exposure, and long outings must be broken up.
• A basic first aid kit and the contact of a vet practice reachable from the area where you paddle.

The difference between a calm outing and a chaotic one is built on land, well before touching deep water. Rushing the steps, perhaps starting straight out in open water, is the fastest way to create a dog that associates the board with fear.

1. 1

   Introduce the craft on dry land

   Let the dog explore the board or kayak sitting on land, climb on and off calmly, rewarding every relaxed approach, until it becomes a familiar, non threatening object.

2. 2

   Teach it to get on and stay still

   Build a spot where the dog gets on, lies down or sits and stays in position on cue, so on board it has a clear task instead of shifting unpredictably.

3. 3

   Try in very shallow, still water

   The first real outings happen where you can touch the bottom, in a calm area free of traffic, with short stretches and many returns, extending duration only when the dog is calm.

4. 4

   Practise climbing back on from the water

   Rehearse in easy conditions how you help the dog back up with the jacket handle, so if it falls in, both of you already know what to do without panicking.

5. 5

   Increase distance and duration carefully

   Only after many calm outings extend the route and move from shore, always staying within a margin that lets you return safely even if something goes wrong.

A warm up before and a cool down after make sense in these activities too, because the effort of balancing and the strain engage the body more than it seems. A few minutes of movement on land before getting on, and a calm phase on return, help the dog handle the outing better.

Beyond falling in, these activities carry less obvious risks that build up over the course of an outing. Knowing them in advance lets you prevent them rather than discover them when it is too late.

1. Heatstroke from reflected sun: the water surface amplifies exposure, and a dog sitting in the sun overheats even in a breeze, so shade and breaks are needed.
2. Swallowing water: drinking salt water or contaminated fresh water causes upsets that can be serious, and the dog must be kept hydrated with fresh water brought from home.
3. Currents, wind and waves: they change conditions and the distance from shore fast, and must be assessed before setting out, not once already offshore.
4. Fatigue from tension: a tense dog tires sooner, and tiredness raises the risk of slips and falls, which is why early outings should be kept short.
5. Cold water: after a long swim or in cold water the dog can chill, and should be dried and warmed on return.

Not every dog and not every day suits these activities, and recognising that is part of the responsibility. Forcing a frightened dog or setting out in the wrong conditions turns a pleasant activity into a needless risk.

• A dog that shows persistent fear of the water or the craft despite gradual habituation should not be forced: more suitable activities exist for it.
• Growing puppies, senior dogs, brachycephalic breeds or animals with heart, respiratory or joint problems need a vet's opinion before starting.
• Days with strong wind, waves, marked currents or extreme temperatures are for postponing, regardless of the urge to go out.
• Areas with motorboat traffic, polluted water or algal blooms should be avoided for the dog's safety.

If the dog belongs to a vulnerable category or has a known health condition, the best choice is to discuss it with the vet before starting, and to agree the duration, intensity and frequency suited to its case. An informed green light is worth more than any improvisation, and lets you enjoy the water without putting the animal at risk.