Can I keep two hamsters together for company?

In the great majority of cases, no. The Syrian hamster is a solitary, territorial animal: two adults in the same cage almost always end up fighting, sometimes with serious or fatal injuries. Even the smaller species, sometimes presented as compatible, cohabit poorly in captivity and need large spaces and a lot of experience. The safe and simple choice is one home per hamster. The company it needs comes from you, interacting during its waking hours.

How big should the wheel be and why does it matter so much?

The wheel must be big enough to let the hamster run with a straight back, not one arched backward. A wheel that is too small forces the spine into an unnatural position that, repeated every night, can cause problems over time. It must also have a continuous, solid running surface, with no rungs or grids for the feet to catch in. Running in the wheel is not a quirk, it is how a hamster burns off energy it would spend in the wild covering large distances.

How often should the cage be cleaned?

Frequent partial cleans beat a rare full clear out. Every day you remove the damp toilet corner and leftover fresh food; once or twice a week you replace the dirtiest part of the substrate while leaving some old bedding. A fuller clean of cage and accessories is done periodically, but never wiping out everything on the same day: removing every familiar smell at once disorients and stresses the hamster, which may respond by becoming more fearful or scent marking everywhere again.

My hamster sleeps all day, is that normal?

Yes, it is entirely normal. The hamster is a nocturnal animal: it sleeps during the day and is active in the evening and at night. It is neither laziness nor illness, it is its physiology. Waking it constantly at the wrong times is a source of stress and raises the risk of a defensive bite. Plan interaction during its waking hours, when it is naturally more curious and sociable. It does become a sign to assess if, during its active hours, it seems unusually apathetic, is not eating, or stays hunched with ruffled fur.

Non conventional species35 minLevel: BeginnerUpdated on August 20, 2026

Setting up the housing and daily routine for a hamster

How to choose the right cage, set up bedding, wheel and hides, plan the daily diet and the care routine that keeps a healthy hamster well.

Audience: Pet owners
Species: Rodents
Scope: Valid everywhere, Italy, European Union

What you need before you start

Una gabbia con base ampia e continua, non una serie di tubi stretti
Lettiera adatta ai roditori, non trucioli profumati né cotone filato
Una ruota piena e di diametro adeguato alla specie del tuo criceto
Un veterinario esperto in animali esotici individuato prima del bisogno

The hamster has a reputation as a simple animal, fit even for children, content with a small cage and a wheel. That very reputation causes it the most harm: it is a solitary, nocturnal, territorial animal, and far more fragile than its size suggests. A cage that is too small, the wrong bedding or an unsuitable wheel are not details, they are the most frequent causes of stress, repetitive behaviour and the illnesses that bring a hamster to the vet. The good news is that, once the space is set up well and a steady routine is in place, this is an animal that asks little and gives a great deal back. This guide walks you through choosing the cage, fitting out the inside, the daily diet and care, through to recognising the signs that warrant a visit.

Choosing the right cage

The first decision is also the most important, because it shapes everything else. A hamster needs continuous floor space to dig and run, not height split into levels linked by narrow tubes. Cages sold as complete kits are almost always too small: it is better to think in terms of a wide, unbroken floor area.

A wide, continuous floor, far more important than stacked levels: the hamster lives and digs on the bottom, not in tubes.
Closely spaced horizontal bars or tall glass or plastic sides, to prevent escapes and falls; widely spaced bars are dangerous.
A base that allows a deep layer of bedding for digging, something a shallow floor does not permit.
Good ventilation but no direct draughts, away from heat sources, direct sun and loud noise.
No narrow tube where the hamster could get stuck, especially in the sturdier species.

Fitting out the inside: bedding, wheel and hides

Inside the cage you need to recreate what a hamster seeks in the wild: a deep substrate to dig burrows in, a dark hide to sleep in by day, and a way to burn off the huge energy it stores up at night. Setting up these three elements well prevents most behaviour problems.

Lay a deep layer of suitable bedding
Use bedding made for rodents that lets it dig stable burrows. Avoid scented shavings and some resinous woods, and never use fluffy cotton wool for the nest, because it can wrap around limbs and be swallowed.
Add a solid wheel of the right diameter
The wheel must have a continuous running surface, with no rungs or gaps that injure feet, and be large enough for the hamster to run with a straight back, not an arched one. A wheel that is too small harms the spine over time.
Provide at least one dark hide
A house or closed burrow to retire and sleep in by day. The hamster is nocturnal: without a dark refuge it rests poorly and is more stressed, and chronic stress opens the door to illness.
Add safe enrichment
Suitable twigs to gnaw, wide tunnels, a low dish with proper sand for coat care. Variety keeps active an animal that otherwise develops repetitive behaviours.
Place food and water in stable spots
A low, heavy bowl for food and a clean bottle or a checked water dish each day. Keep the food area away from the corner the hamster chooses as a toilet.

The daily diet

The hamster is omnivorous and eats little, so every mouthful counts. The base is a good species specific food, topped up with small amounts of fresh vegetables and rare protein extras. The most common mistake is offering mixes full of sweet, fatty pieces the hamster picks out, leaving the rest: that way it gets fat and unbalanced.

Indicative feeding scheme for a healthy adult hamster. Amounts should be adapted to the species and weight, with the advice of an exotics vet.
Category	Frequency	Notes
Species specific hamster food	Every day	Base of the diet, ideally in a uniform form that prevents selective feeding
Fresh vegetables in small doses	A few times a week	A little at a time, washed, avoiding gassy vegetables and toxic plants
Extra protein source	Occasional	A small amount, useful in some phases, not a daily food
Sugary fruit	Rarely	Only in tiny pieces, the risk of obesity and sugar problems is real
Clean water	Always available	Checked and changed daily, the bottle needs verifying because it clogs

The care and cleaning routine

Caring for a hamster comes down to a light but steady routine. A few minutes a day for checks and a regular partial clean are enough to keep it healthy, as long as you do not overhaul everything at once: emptying the cage completely removes familiar smells and stresses the animal.

Every day check water and food, remove leftover fresh food, and watch whether the hamster is lively and eating normally.
Every day take out the damp corner used as a toilet, without touching the rest of the bedding.
Once or twice a week replace the dirtiest part of the substrate, leaving some old bedding to keep the familiar scent.
Periodically give the cage and accessories a fuller clean, but never all on the same day so as not to wipe out its reference points.
Regularly check teeth, nails, eyes, nose and coat, and weigh the hamster to catch changes early.
Handle it gently and during its waking hours, never waking it with a start, because a frightened hamster bites in defence.

Signs of illness and when to worry

Like many prey animals, the hamster hides illness for as long as it can, so by the time the signs are obvious the situation is often already advanced. Watching it every day and knowing its normal behaviour is the only way to notice in time. These signs call for an exotics vet without delay.

Loss of appetite or no longer stuffing the cheeks, often the first sign something is wrong.
Soft stools or diarrhoea, a serious condition in such a small animal because of rapid dehydration.
A cheek that stays swollen, a possible sign of an impacted or inflamed cheek pouch.
Difficulty eating, drooling or weight loss, which can point to overgrown teeth.
Noisy breathing, discharge from eyes or nose, apathy, ruffled fur or bald patches.
Lumps or swellings under the skin, common in older hamsters, to be assessed at once.

Frequently asked questions

Can I keep two hamsters together for company?: In the great majority of cases, no. The Syrian hamster is a solitary, territorial animal: two adults in the same cage almost always end up fighting, sometimes with serious or fatal injuries. Even the smaller species, sometimes presented as compatible, cohabit poorly in captivity and need large spaces and a lot of experience. The safe and simple choice is one home per hamster. The company it needs comes from you, interacting during its waking hours.
How big should the wheel be and why does it matter so much?: The wheel must be big enough to let the hamster run with a straight back, not one arched backward. A wheel that is too small forces the spine into an unnatural position that, repeated every night, can cause problems over time. It must also have a continuous, solid running surface, with no rungs or grids for the feet to catch in. Running in the wheel is not a quirk, it is how a hamster burns off energy it would spend in the wild covering large distances.
How often should the cage be cleaned?: Frequent partial cleans beat a rare full clear out. Every day you remove the damp toilet corner and leftover fresh food; once or twice a week you replace the dirtiest part of the substrate while leaving some old bedding. A fuller clean of cage and accessories is done periodically, but never wiping out everything on the same day: removing every familiar smell at once disorients and stresses the hamster, which may respond by becoming more fearful or scent marking everywhere again.
My hamster sleeps all day, is that normal?: Yes, it is entirely normal. The hamster is a nocturnal animal: it sleeps during the day and is active in the evening and at night. It is neither laziness nor illness, it is its physiology. Waking it constantly at the wrong times is a source of stress and raises the risk of a defensive bite. Plan interaction during its waking hours, when it is naturally more curious and sociable. It does become a sign to assess if, during its active hours, it seems unusually apathetic, is not eating, or stays hunched with ruffled fur.

What to do next

Choose a cage with a wide, continuous floor, never narrow tubes, and remember every hamster lives alone. Inside, provide a deep layer of suitable bedding, a solid wheel big enough to run with a straight back, and at least one dark hide. Offer a species specific food every day with a little fresh vegetable, check water and food daily, and clean in stages without wiping out the scents. Watch it every day and, at the first signs such as loss of appetite, diarrhoea or a swollen cheek, seek an exotics vet straight away.